And The Sun Danced!

 On May 13 1917 three shepherd children met Mary; ten-year-old Lucia, nine-year-old Francisco and seven-year-old Jacinta. The children chatted away with Mary on the 13th of each month for six months, though interestingly only Lucia spoke or heard the responses. Mary appeared, promising a miracle on the sixth visit, and so people from near and far, skeptic and devotee alike, filled the valley awaiting this miracle. Lucia, in her later memoirs wrote the secrets that Mary had shared with her; that the war would soon end and the soldiers would return home (WWI) and that if people did not cease to offend God, a greater war would occur (WWII.) During her final visit, Mary made the sun dance as seen by the 70,000+ witnesses that day. Whether this was a miracle, a mass hallucination, or simple delirium from staring at the sun for too long, this event, though accepted by the church, is still being debated today. The city of Fatima has been built on the site of these apparitions and thousands walk across Portugal each year in search of their own miracles.

After returning to Tomar, I had planned to visit Fatima the following day by bus. However, upon hearing my plans, the endlessly hospitable Lígia and Juana stated, despite my protests, that they would pick me up the following morning at 10am to go together to Fatima. The next day, as I took a photo of a pigeon outside of my hotel, I heard the horn beep and looked up to see their laughing faces. I hopped into the car quickly and we three were off to meet our Lady of Fatima.

A half hours drive from Tomar, Fatima is home to a vast square with a modern church on one side and a more traditional church on the other. Both churches shone white against the deep blue sky, and stubbornly unmoving sun. We each bought candles, braving the fires of hell to set them in their place as prayers, and we watched as pilgrims made their way across the square on their knees.  Though beautiful, Fatima reeks of commercialism, selling rosaries, patches, jewelry, and miracles for those desperate for God's grace. After a quick coffee, we piled back into the car to find the house of Lucia, the saintly child ...or the skilled storyteller, depending on one's perspective. 

I cannot argue when accepting a ride and the driver decides on a detour. But I have no need to argue when that detour proves to be a beautiful beachside village with bright colors and fresh salty air. After our Fatima pilgrimage, Lígia brought me to her favorite place for a seaside lunch. We sat with bacalao and octopus in a small restaurant in the city of Nazaré, as we talked of our lives and homes and how they differ. Juana, a beautiful dark haired 29 year old gym teacher who studied in Coimbra, talked of her national pride.

"You have heard of Portuguese women and their moustaches, right?"
"What? no!"
"Well that's how the rest of Europe sees us."

Juana went on to describe the importance of Portugal winning the Euro and of Ronaldo's weight as a national hero. "The world can see that something is happening in our little country," she said, her posture straight and her smile bright.

"How do you feel after walking? Your body, I mean?"
"Surprisingly good, strong... But I think my boobs shrunk.."
Juana looked down at her athletic though slender form.
"Hmm, I should not walk the Camino then…"